It vanished from most men's wardrobes right about the time of John Gotti's last perp walk. But now the sartorial Hefty bag is ready for a modern revival. The double-breasted suit, shown this fall by Miuccia Prada, Giorgio Armani, and Dries Van Noten, among other designers, is officially a respectable, tasteful departure from your single-breasted routine.
This season's double-breasteds are designed for younger men. The lapels are smaller, the buttons closer together (in some cases the traditional six-button construction has been pared down to four), and the length cropped.
Contrary to conventional wisdom, the six-button suit is not an ideal silhouette for a husky frame. Rather than hide girth, those extra inches of fabric draw attention to it. For tall, lean men looking to add some heft, however, this is the jacket to try.
Unless your suit is tightly fitted, always keep the buttons fastened when standing.
Dries Van Noten
Bold white pinstripes are best left to crooks with tommy guns. If you want a little pattern, stick with a subdued tonal chalk stripe.
To mitigate the suit˙s gravitas, try ditching the tie. A cashmere scarf tucked under the lapels or a simple turtleneck is an unfussy alternative.
Photographs by MCV Photo
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