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Food + Drinks

Ice Cream Sandwiches are Back

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Photograph by Brad Bridgers

Combine cookies with ice cream and you have something doubly delicious—at least in theory. In practice, though, you often end up with a mushy dessert that relies on musical-truck nostalgia for its appeal. But when the best pastry chefs in the business pair gooey truffle cookies and freshly churned ice creams, the dream is realized. If only your grade-school summers had tasted this good. JJ Goode

The Best Restaurants for the Two-for-One Dessert

DENVER: Rioja
Eric Dale makes the tastiest PB&J you've ever had: He stuffs two peanut-butter shortbreads with Concord-grape gelée and chocolate-glazed peanut-butter semifreddo (a cross between ice cream and mousse). 1431 Larimer St., 303-820-2282; riojadenver.com

SAN FRANCISCO: Aziza
Anise ice cream delivers a licorice-y punch to the two crispy Florentine cookies that Melissa Chou spikes with pistachios and crunchy cocoa nibs. 5800 Geary Blvd., 415-752-2222; aziza-sf.com

NEW YORK: Damon: Frugal Friday
Tom Colicchio protégé Damon Wise reimagines classic desserts, pairing Oreos with malted-milk ice cream (his take on Whoppers) and slipping cheesecake ice cream between graham crackers. 47 E. 19th St., 212-780-0880; damonfrugalfridayeveryday­excepttuesdaywebsite.com

How to Make Stellar Versions Yourself

You don't have to be a pro with the KitchenAid mixer to whip up superior ice cream sandwiches. Just buy the good stuff, let the ice cream thaw until it has the texture of soft serve, and be conservative with the filling unless you want some in your lap. Here are a few combos to try.

1. Tate's Bake Shop Chocolate Chip Cookies + Jeni's Salty Caramel Ice Cream
(tatesbakeshop.com; jenisicecreams.com)

2. Pepperidge Farm Chessmen + Vosges Red Fire Ice Cream
(pepperidgefarm.com; vosgeschocolate.com)

3. Trader Joe's Triple Ginger Snaps + Hÿagen-Dazs Mango Ice Cream
(traderjoes.com; haagen-dazs.com)


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