Brad Goreski's Highlights from the Milan Men's Shows, Part 2
I wasn't expecting it, but as the day shaped up, I noticed over and over again at the shows that the accessories were the real standouts. Espadrilles can be tricky when you take them off the runway and try to pull them off in reality, but Ferragamo came out with these amazing brown-and-white braided shoes that were so Italian. The way the leather was woven and the attention to detail made them really versatile too: great for the beach, or traveling to the Mediterranean, or in the city with jeans and a cool T-shirt.
At Prada, the whole setup—instead of rows and a runway—was these cubes that everyone had to sit on, and the models weaved in between the blocks. My friend told me that the reason for the spaced-out cubes was that Miuccia Prada wanted the viewer to be confronted by the clothes and the models. There's closeness and safety when you're in rows with other editors and stylists, but isolated on a block, your comfort zone and the sensory experience are totally jolted, especially since the clothes are such amazing statement pieces—golfer shoes, printed neckscarves, bejeweled folios.
I loved Calvin Klein's collection. The clothes were like contemporary art—but as soon I went backstage and saw the shoes in black and muted green and muted yellow with a big black platform, I knew, for me, it was going to be the shoe of the season. It might be because of my obsession with club kids and Michael Alig, but I'm seeing the resurgence of that underground club culture done in a minimalist way. I think that shoe is going to be a huge hit. Of course, I like it because it makes me two inches taller, and for me, I'm all about the height. Plus, a shoe like that makes you walk differently; it's like a male version of the high heel.
Obviously, sometimes I just feel like looking like a box of crayons. In New York that kind of blends in, but in an older city like Milan, and especially with the people who surround the shows, you really stand out. This Jil Sander outfit in front of the duomo, to me, was just pure fun, from the way the pant was cropped to the neoprene fin detail on the back of the jacket. There's such a favorable reaction whenever I wear Jil Sander, and it feels like color blocking is just having a real moment.
When the lobster in green-pea purée was put in front of me at lunch, I saw it again! The way that idea is taking over everything in fashion and design and food is amazing. Some people might think I look like a clown with the way I pile on color, but it's exciting that designers are now challenging us with color and proportion, and I can't wait to see where it goes next.
—By Brad Goreski
Also on Details.com:
From Milan, the DETAILS Fashion Editors' Fashion Week Photo Diary
Brad Goreski's Highlights from the Milan Men's Shows, Part 1
From Florence, the DETAILS Fashion Editors' Pitti Uomo Photo Diary
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