I told Wilfredo Rosario, owner of Wilfred's Tailor in New York City, that I wanted to wear my Polo oxford untucked for that casually trim Thom Browne look. "On an untucked shirt, the bottom hem should be straight or have a shallow curve," Rosario said as he began pinning. "A deeply curved hem looks sloppy." And how cropped should the shirt be? "Imagine there's one more button below the bottom button. That's as short as you should go." A week later, I had a fitted shirt that skimmed my arms and torso, hitting just below the waistline. At $100 ($40 for the body, $40 for the sleeves, $20 to raise the hem), the alterations weren't cheap, but now it fits perfectly--at less than the cost of an actual Thom Browne shirt.
The Four Best Tailors in America
Wilfred's Tailor
20 W. 23rd St. New York City 212-242-3030
Lizon Tailors
10905 Venice Blvd. Los Angeles 310-558-8611
Golden Needle Tailoring
814 N. State St. Chicago 312-787-3416
Newbury Tailoring Company
91 Newbury St. Boston 617-437-9180
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