3 Fall Collections to Know: Officine Generale, Christopher Kane, and Fabric-Brand & Co.

Meet the designers behind the best up-and-coming menswear lines around.

Pierre Mahéo / Officine Generale

The Backstory: The 38-year-old Frenchman Pierre Mahéo struck out on his own two years ago after honing his craft at a Parisian tailoring firm and overseeing European design studios (which he'd rather not name, since, as he says, "people put you in the image of the brand before"). Now his broken-in oxford shirts, cashmere-wool-blend blazers, and other elevated basics are produced in small ateliers in Portugal, France, and Italy.
The Aesthetic: An elegant approach to everyday essentials—think snug cardigans with cable-knit sleeves (pictured above), suit jackets lined with Japanese slub chambray—that channel workwear by way of Paris.
The Inspiration: French New Wave films of the sixties. "I was looking at Plein Soleil [Purple Noon] and À Bout de Souffle [Breathless]," he says. "I really liked the softness of the colors and the way they wore their garments: dress pants mixed with a polo shirt, a knitted tie with a leather jacket."
Coming Attractions: Officine Generale's flagship Paris store is due to open next year in Saint Germain des Prés, the neighborhood where Mahéo lives and works.


Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane Fall 2013

The Backstory: Ever since he launched his eponymous women's collection in 2006, the 31-year-old Scottish wunderkind has been busy: He played a pivotal role in the 2009 reboot of Versace's Versus line and, this past January, sold the majority stake in his label to heavyweight conglomerate Kering. Vocal demands from fashion-forward guys that his "killer monkey" tees be made for them led Kane to design his first men's collection in 2011—though, he admits, it wasn't entirely altruistic: "It's great that I can wear my own clothing too."
The Aesthetic: Superior technical design know-how leavened with measured cheekiness: T-shirts emblazoned with mummies, a sharp-collared oversize black pea coat, an understated leopard-themed knitted sweater made for the man who doesn't do patterns but should.
The Inspiration: "As long as I can remember, I've been watching horror films. I used many of the iconic characters, like Frankenstein and Dracula, as prints, but also to create an overall atmosphere for the collection."
How to wear it: "Personally, I am quite a simple dresser. I like good tailoring, slim jeans, and cashmere sweaters. I always team my prints with layers like a black or navy sweater and plain black jeans."


Simon Miller / Fabric-Brand & Co.

Simon Miller Jeans

Denim designer Simon Miller spent the past several years traveling throughout Japan, obsessed with producing the ultimate five-pocket jeans. "I've always been working toward what I would perceive as my perfect brand," says the New Zealand–born 38-year-old, who parted ways with the label that still bears his name in 2011. Launching this fall, Fabric-Brand & Co. proves that Miller's tunnel vision has paid off. The collection includes two fits—slim and straight-leg—that come in a variety of Japanese fabrics. "simple and beautiful," Miller says. We couldn't agree more.

—The Details editors


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Photos (from top) by stuart tyson, styling by Melodie DeWitt; By jakob axelman, styling by Eugene Tong, Hair by Tamas Tuzes for Redken, Makeup by Yumi Lee for CHANEL, Casting by Edward Kim at The Edit Desk; By stuart tyson, styling by Melodie DeWitt.
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