The Fall 2014 collections wrapped up in Paris on Sunday with some of menswear's biggest names: Lanvin, Paul Smith, and Saint Laurent. Highlights include the exquisite tailoring at Louis Vuitton and Valentino, Givenchy's take on streetwear, and the graphic prints in a high-octane colors from Dries van Noten. With the haute couture collections starting the same evening, we saw editors like Anna Wintour front row at Saint Laurent, while the men's fashion press and buyers bid farewell until June, when the Spring 2015 circuit begins.
Last season's elegance gave way to a devil-may-care attitude for Fall 2014. Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver mixed new wave and rockabilly in long, trim suits worn with the sleeves rolled up to expose knitwear underneath. Other looks were finished with a long, skinny scarf jauntily wrapped around the neck. Flashes of neon fuchsia on a brushed calfskin sweater or bright leather bomber worn with a patterned skinny tie were trés cool.
Anna Wintour, Grace Coddington, Pierre Bergé, and Salma Hayek watched from the front row as creative director Hedi Slimane went rock in a big way, presenting a tour de force collection that opened with a three-button blazer paired with drainpipe trousers and a skinny tie. Other standout pieces include a shirt with black leather frills, a red varsity jacket lined in leopard print, and a boxy overcoat with green sparkles.
For his latest collection, Sir Paul Smith's turned to the late Jim Morrison for inspiration. Tousled-haired models strode over Turkish rugs wearing musical-note print sweaters over black leather trousers, or thick shawls draped over hooded shearling tunics. Suits were few and far between, but when they did appear the lapels were worn raised and high on the neck, with plenty of rock 'n' roll attitude, of course.
Luxurious essentials have long been a hallmark of the Christophe Lemaire style. This season, the designer presented a covetable collection of oversized coats and jackets reminiscent of '80s Japanese tailoring, with the use of fine tweeds and cashmere to highlight his ample, though masculine, silhouette.
Thom Browne took us to a grey-felted fantasy land this season. His models walked in magnificent animal headgear designed by Stephen Jones to set the tone for his enchanted woodland show, which began with a playful take on tweed. Frayed gray tweed suits—some with short trousers, long skirts, and Browne's signature cropped pant—gave way to a masked army decked out in daringly voluminous leaf-print uniforms for a strange finish to this dark fairy tale.
Also on Details.com:
Carven, Valentino, Raf Simons, Haider Ackermann, and Walter Van Beirendonck Kick Off the First Day of Paris Fashion Week, Fall 2014
Kenzo, Hermès, A.P.C., Wooyoungmi, and Dior Homme at Paris Fashion Week, Day 4
Givenchy, Margiela, Berluti, and Kris Van Assche at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2014, Day 3