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Jack Spade "Steps Out From Behind Kate's Shadow" with Its First New York Fashion Week Presentation

Design director Todd Magill is focusing on tailoring and luxe sportswear to elevate the brand while still staying true to its roots.

After stints at Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren, Todd Magill joined Jack Spade as design director last year. In that time he's taken cues from the brand's well-known bags and accessories and moved the menswear towards a cleaner, more modern and utilitarian aesthetic. "I saw a lacking in that area of the brand's philosophy and wanted to go there," he says. The resulting Fall 2014 collection is something he and his team are proud enough of to present as part of New York Fashion Week, a first for the brand. As Magill put it, it was time "to step out from behind Kate's shadow."

The guy they design for: "He's an urban, New York guy who wants to look good but isn't a trend chaser."

Key pieces for Fall 2014: Magill sought to elevate the entire collection this season by focusing on tailoring and "taking it more seriously as a category." Instead of collaborating with Southwick, a Massachusetts tailoring company, Jack Spade now designs all their tailoring in house using Italian fabrics. Magill extended the upgrade to the rest of the collection, too, emphasizing the 'luxe' part the brand's "luxurious approach to classic American sportswear" with pieces like soft, unlined suede sweatpants for weekend wear.

Waxed cotton accessories have been a Jack Spade mainstay (they work with Halley Stevenson in Scotland, one of the world's oldest waxwear companies), and we saw some of the direct inspiration Magill took from the brand's waxwear bags in the wool-lined trench coat (coated entirely) and the parkas and pea coats, which were reinforced with wax in areas prone to wear.

What's next: Magill is already underway with the Spring 2015 collection, which he tells us will be more utilitarian with a focus on technical fabrications and other details designed for practicality and durability (which we can't reveal just yet) in a continued effort to "look at the warmth of the Jack Spade brand through a modern lens."

Details associate web editor, Perrin Drumm. Follow her on Instagram @perrindrumm

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Also on Details.com:
New York Offers a Fresh Approach to Fashion Week With 7 "Men's Day" Presentations
New York Fashion Week Preview: 12 Designers Share Sketches of Their Upcoming Fall 2014 Collections
Video—Best Street-Style Moments from Pitti Uomo Fall 2014

Photo courtesy of Getty.

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