If you haven't heard of the nascent menswear brand Fingers Crossed—or its founder, Ryu Hayama—you're missing out on a label that should definitely be on your radar. Hayama's designs pair modern aesthetics and fabrication with vintage details to create some of the best-fitting and most durable products on the market today.
The designer himself considers comfort above all else when getting ready for his day, a preference that also informs his design work. Here, Hayama's thoughts on what every man should have in his closet, why you shouldn't copy runway looks head to toe, and the exact number of suits you should own.
1. Personally, I like T-shirts and basics the best, because they're comfortable. I still wear collared shirts, but I prefer not to.
2. I can't leave home without my bomber jacket—it's my favorite. It's kind of a trend now, but I think every guy should have a MA-1 style jacket.
3. An asymmetrical leather jacket is also a must-have in every man's wardrobe.
4. If you layer your clothing, try to show all of the layers. Even when it's colder, show your socks.
5. Every man should have at least one thing that is very well made, fits well, and has a story—a unique garment with something that makes it special.
6. Before you put on anything fancy, put on basic pieces and work up, adding things that mean a lot to you.
7. Having a variety of suits is important—one for a wedding, a dinner party, or a funeral. Each one should have a different lapel and fabrication.
8. Avoid fabrics that shrink and break down quickly. I've had bad experiences with some that rip after just a few wears.
9. I got my watch from my wife's family. It's a Japanese traditional thing for the groom to get a watch from the bride's family, so I wear mine every day with my wedding ring.
10. It's great to take inspiration from the runway, but it's boring and uncreative when you just copy those looks.