1 | Adam Kimmel
The influence: Snoop Dogg
Though a Snoop fan since his youth, Kimmel only recently turned into a serious enthusiast. "I saw him do an interview on TV right before I started designing the collection and became mesmerized," he says. Kimmel went on to design bandanna prints, cotton-silk baseball jackets, and notch-lapel suits that blend his own relaxed, wearable tailoring with the rapper's uniquely leisurely sensibility.

2 | Dries Van Noten
The influence: 2-Tone Ska
This season, the Belgian designer channeled the Specials and other British ska and rocksteady revivalists. Van Noten's collection paired his signature avant-garde aesthetic (two-tone dress shirts, intricately patterned suits) with the look of London rude-boy skinheads (buzz cuts, bleached denim, combat boots). The Dries man is a mod, yes, but the sort you wouldn't want to tussle with.

3 | Simon Spurr
The influence: Seventies British rock
That spring in your step you get when Bowie or the Clash or Quadrophenia-era Who comes on your iPod? That's the quintessential Britishness—refined yet edgy—Spurr uses as inspiration for his designs. "When you hear the music," he says, "it gives you a sense of gentility mixed with swagger and confidence. That defines the attitude of the Simon Spurr guy."

4 | Patrik Ervell
The influence: Slowdive
The young designer takes cues from the melancholy, guitar-heavy sound of early-nineties shoegaze rock—in particular the U.K. band Slowdive, which Ervell says he listens to when designing his collections. He's going for a vibe that's "pure, modern, and a little somber, but with a real depth of emotion." That means slim club-collared shirts and tapered pants that hit right at the ankle, mostly in muted shades of blue and khaki.

5 | Richard Chai
The influence: Grunge
Like many other high-school kids reared on MTV in the early nineties, Chai was heavily inspired by the Seattle music scene. His signature plaid shirts instantly evoke Kurt Cobain et al., but Chai says his interpretation isn't so literal: "It's more about the spirit of the music—doing away with that sense of polish and preciousness."

Most Played on the Runway
Six Tunes That Designers Love Using as a Soundtrack to Their Collections.

1 | The Smiths - "This Charming Man"

2 | Talking Heads - "And She Was"

3 | Fleetwood Mac - "Hold Me"

4 | The Cure - "Just Like Heaven"

5 | The Animals - "House of the Rising Sun"

6 | Joy Division - "Shadowplay"

The Top Influencers of All Time

1 | The Rolling Stones
An influence on: Burberry, Viktor & Rolf, Comme des Garçons

2 | Nirvana
An influence on: Rag & Bone, John Galliano, Y-3, Yigal Azrouël

3 | Patti Smith
An influence on: Ann Demeulemeester, Balmain, John Varvatos

4 | David Bowie
An influence on: Phillip Lim, Gucci, Tommy Hilfiger

—Jason Chen

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