WHERE TO SLEEP
Le Citizen Hotel has delivered a fresh breath to the area—with just 12 rooms and a Swedish-minimalist aesthetic, it's ready-made for the alterna-chic jet set.
WHERE TO SHOP
High-design stores are setting the tone for this rising fashion hub: The concept store Merci houses designers like Isabel Marant and Paul Smith and vintage pieces; Renhsen does denim-as-second-skin with aplomb; Antoine & Lili is frequented by locals who define "bourgeois bohemian."
WHERE TO EAT
No Parisian enclave is complete without an incredible boulangerie—at Du Pain et Des Idées, crusty baguettes are baked by a former fashion executive. For more substantial bites, try Philou (33-14-238-0013), where classic poularde de Bresse and frogs' legs are favorites on the chalkboard menu.
WHAT TO SEE
End the day at Point éphémère, which shares a building with a working fire station and hosts a colorful selection of artists in residence and top-shelf performances—if you're lucky you might catch Das Racist doing a set.
See more emerging neighborhoods.