Restaurant: Le Chateaubriand
Setting: A classic bistro anchored by a chalkboard scrawled with the names of wine-geek favorites.
Cuisine: Flavors poached from Asia, Central America, and the Middle East, regions frequented by the Basque chef.
Dish: Venison with black olives and clementines, an arousing amalgam of meat, earth, and citrus.
Setting: Simple blonde-wood chairs and bare, concrete walls set under a glamorous glass ceiling.
Cuisine: The new style's lightest, most minimalist rendition, overseen by the 23-year-old wunderkind.
Dish: The sea urchin and caviar entrée finished with shaved frozen tomato, an unexpected kiss of cool and a burst of tomato essence.
Restaurant: La Gazzetta
Setting: A neighborhood joint circa 1970, freeze-dried, right down to the pressed-tin walls.
Cuisine: Sophisticated, Mediterranean-inflected fare from the group's grown-up, a Swedish-born chef who just turned 40.
Dish: Pasta and squid in pesto, in which the noodles and seafood are identical shapes, so your palate does all the work.
Setting: A clattery shoebox with bar tables around the open kitchen.
Cuisine: Dishes that reflect the Mediterranean roots of Passerini, a former chef at Le Chateaubriand and La Gazzetta.
Dish: Red mullet served over beans in a briny broth that, together, resemble stones floating in shallow seawater.
Setting: A limestone-lined, 22-seat space dominated by a modern, stainless-steel kitchen.
Cuisine: Precise, authentic dishes prepared by the 33-year-old Chicago native, a vet of several serious French restaurants.
Dish: Duck cooked with cabbage and beetroot, a transcendent take on a Gallic favorite.