The cold waters off Galicia, on Spain's northwest coast, produce some of the world's finest seafood. Tiny cockles, lanky razor clams, tender pieces of octopus, and the sought-after percebes (otherworldly-looking barnacles) are canned in small batches so they're just as briny and delicate as if they were freshly steamed. Serve them from the can with toothpicks or toss them and their brine with just-cooked linguine and a pinch of chili. $26.50 to $79 for 5.3 ounces;

These fat, flavorful wild fish, also culled from Galician waters and packed in olive oil, make the stuff in the typical supermarket tin seem like Fancy Feast. Drain and lightly mash them with olive oil, a squeeze of lemon, and coarse sea salt for a perfect cracker topping. $4 for 4.2 ounces;

You may have splurged on ventresca (fat-riddled tuna belly) at a sushi bar, where it's called toro. Now try the buttery, almost creamy Italian canned version, as luxurious straight from the can as it is tossed with white beans and chopped parsley. $51 for 10.6 ounces;

Sicilian salt-packed anchovies are to the oil-packed Roland brand fillets what dry-aged rib eyes are to Hungry-Man Salisbury Steak. Brush off the salt crystals under running water and separate the fillets, then soak in cold water for a minute. Mince with garlic, mash to a paste with chili flakes, and stir into lemon juice and olive oil for a great dressing. $28 for 2.2 pounds;

More on the Seafood Renaissance:
The New Seafood Renaissance
The Best Little Fish Shacks in the Big City
The Reinvented Raw Bar

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How to Buy Seafood