The Best New Bakeries in America
Landbrot restaurant in New York City
(Left: Sous-chef Andrew Roth)
Customers at this tiny, bustling brick-and-wood Boerum Hill bakery quickly deplete Zachary Golper's stock of crusty baguettes, elaborate olive-studded fougasse, and honeyed Portuguese corn bread. The fast-acting fan base is in high contrast to the time it takes to develop the flavors of those breads—up to 68 hours to ferment the Portland, Oregon, native's rye-and-wheat miche, a loaf that's become one of New York's must-eats.
Los Angeles; 213-327-0782
There's no sign, but fans of L.A.'s best baguette (rough and pointy as a witch's finger) don't need one to locate this bright and lofty downtown bakery. Ran Zimon, who grew up outside Tel Aviv and moved to California in 2008, doesn't bake breads; he "grows" them, a nod to the time-intensive natural yeast he uses for his country, multigrain, cranberry-fig, and other artisanal loaves.
Easy Tiger (Right)
Most bakeries are done for the day by early afternoon—but most bakeries aren't also a beer garden. This Austin hangout goes until 2 a.m. nightly, selling golden baguettes from a Parisian-pink counter like last-call shots. A glass wall offers a peek into the bakery, where David Norman, former head bread man at the shuttered Bouley Bakery in NYC, creates dark German ryes, walnut-oiled wheats, and three-flour (rye, spelt, and white) French levains.
New York City; landbrotbakery.com
Germans are nothing if not efficient. The first Bavarian-chic Landbrot bakery-bar opened in the West Village last April, followed by a second on the ground floor of the Thompson LES hotel in June. The elder Landbrot has double the seats and a second-floor commissary, where Dresden native Robert Scholz bakes for both locations. His dark, double-crusted rye, Berlin Brot miche, and German Table Bread, speckled with holes, ride down from the kitchen on a 30-foot glass dumbwaiter to adoring carb converts below.
Little Goat Bread
Tucked within Stephanie Izard's Little Goat diner, this new glass-enclosed retail bakery/bar/coffee shop is a dream come true for Greg Wade, who spent the past two years working with Izard to develop a creative, seasonally driven bread program (celery-root focaccia, smoked-parsnip challah, "chicken soup" bread) from the basement of her sister restaurant, The Girl and the Goat. Not to be missed: the Fat Bread, for which Wade works duck drippings into the dough of his signature pickled-mustard-seed-studded loaf.
Sun Street Breads (Left)
Solveig Tofte's fan-swarmed farmers'-market stand is all grown up, selling oat-dusted "lunchbox" pan loaves, granola wheats, and three types of rye from a cheery brick-and-mortar bakery-restaurant. Tofte mines her Norwegian heritage for inspiration—almond fyrstekakke, anyone?—but also celebrates America's bread tradition with rare and heirloom wheats from small farmers and millers across the country.