When it comes to suits and color, the lines have been firmly drawn. On one side, there's the discerning man's holy trinity: black, navy, charcoal. On the other, the wild cards that always show up at fashion week or on the red carpet—a rainbow assortment that represents a tonal (if not moral) sartorial sin. Increasingly, designers are charting a middle way when it comes to color, one defined by a subtle shift in shade and hue, pushing men just past their comfort zone. "We're not talking about being outrageous," says Savile Row tailor Richard James, "just a little bit more color than you would expect."