"My older brothers—Dusty, Billy, Max, and Josh—all rip but never made it. Billy was my driving force, making me take vitamins and drink molasses because he thought it was 'good for me.' I needed that push because I didn't take surfing that seriously; I felt invincible. Then, at 22, I sprained one ankle and broke the other. I realized I had to take better care of my body. That's when I started foam-rolling. I wake up at 6 A.M., and it's the first thing I do . . . after I zombie over to my coffee machine. I travel with a foam roller and bust it out in airports. People give me weird looks, but they'll be on the plane suffering.
"After an hour of foam-rolling and stretching, I head to my local breakfast spot, Lei Petite, in Princeville, Hawaii, for an açai bowl with strawberries, bananas, granola, and honey. It fuels me until my second breakfast—eggs, hash browns, toast—after surfing.
"I stay on the water for two hours, three times a day. Always paddling, always moving. It's more of a workout if you hunt down the waves. I exercise with a trainer, too: three days a week for 90 minutes. Surfing is a crazy arm workout and good cardio, so we focus on core and leg strength—short-burst power work, like pushing sleds—and balance training to prehab my ankles so I don't get hurt again. Things like standing on a Bosu trainer while he tosses me a tennis ball. Surfing has a lot to do with your feet, so I spread my toes and try to get all gecko-y.
"Afterward, I take fish oil and glucosamine to keep my ligaments and joints lubed up, then go to Kilauea Fish Market to get an ahi wrap for lunch. I eat a lot of fish—in Hawaii, it's the best food going. For dinner I mix it up: pasta or Mexican. I can eat an entire pint of ice cream. My coach, Tom Whitaker, calls it happy food. As in, 'Be happy and it comes through when you surf.'
"I need to be more on top of my nutrition, though: I get a little paunch occasionally. My girlfriend will point and ask, 'What is that?' So, yeah, maybe it's time to cut down on the Häagen-Dazs."