

Photograph by Craig Cutler
Bar food is generally consumed (or, rather, scarfed down) as a means of delivering grease, to soak up the evening's booze. But one item on the menu has a higher calling: the hot wing. Fried or bakedand almost always coated with that familiar spicy-tangy duo of cayenne-pepper sauce and butterthe finger food is a guilty pleasure for even the most accomplished of chefs. Accordingly, they're closing the gap between Hooters and haute cuisine, making their own fiery concoctions, cooking up duck wings, and adding unexpected flavors like licorice and celery root. JJ Goode
WHERE TO EAT THE SOUPED-UP VERSION
1. Magnolia Gastropub & Brewery (San Francisco)
Don't let the pub label fool you: Brandon Jew confits Liberty Farm duck wings, glazes them with chiles, sugar, and vinegar, and pairs them with a slaw of apple and celery root in a blue-cheese vinaigrette.
1398 Haight Street, 415-864-7468
2. Table 8 (Miami Beach)
Govind Armstrong simmers wings in fat for six hours before coating them in panko, frying them to a crisp, and treating them to house-made hot sauce and a buttermilk-blue-cheese dip.
1458 Ocean Drive, 305-695-4114
3. Terroir (New York City)
Boned, braised in olive oil, and deep-fried, Marco Canora's turkey wings come slicked with an Italian-inspired riff on buffalo sauce made of chiles, tomatoes, brown sugar, and red-wine vinegar.
413 East 12th Street, 646-602-1300
4. Toro (Boston)
Ken Oringer rotates two renditions on his menu: a spiffed-up classic bathed in Tabasco-spiked, rosemary-flecked brown butter and a version tossed in a combination of black licorice and soy sauce.
1704 Washington Street, 617-536-4300
5. Gyenari Korean BBQ & Lounge (Los Angeles)
To amp up his double-fried chicken wings, Robert Benson douses them in a sticky soy-garlic glaze and offers sour-cream-based ranch dressing as a cool counterpoint.
9450 Washington Boulevard, 310-838-3131
NEXT-LEVEL BLUE-CHEESE SAUCE

Photograph by C. Fleurent/Veer
Chef Michel Ricard, of Citronelle and Central in Washington, D.C., whips up a simple blue-cheese sauce that can transform even take-out wings into something special.
1 cup mayonnaise
1 garlic clove, peeled
½ red bell pepper, seeded
½ cup sour cream
1 tbsp red-wine vinegar
Salt to taste
Tabasco to taste
2 oz Roquefort cheese
In a blender, purée the first six ingredients until smooth. Add Tabasco, then add half the Roquefort and blend again. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, crumble in the remaining Roquefort, and stir briefly until the cheese is well distributed but the mixture is still chunky.