Milan has been a whirlwind of belted overcoats, three-piece suits, and high-cuffed trousers. The fourth and final day ended mid-afternoon with the fashion pack heading to Paris for a rare free evening before the last round of the Fall 2014 shows.
DSquared2 (pictured above)
Institutional jailbird chic was the theme at Dsquared2, with Cypress Hill's "Insane in the Membrane" playing over the loudspeakers and Dean and Dan's models parading uniforms from "Caten's Penitentiary," a print found on the back of quilted, sunset-orange bombers paired with short, cuffed, black trousers. Wool beanies, thick-soled lace-up boots and plenty of distressed, denim, sometimes worn from head-to-toe, confirmed the look. Their vintage-style doctor's bag in brushed calfskin leather is definitely worth a jailbreak.
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Giorgio Armani rethought the jacket this season, sharing a softer, tailored blazer and making his raglan-cut sleeves the star. Paired with an aristocratic waistcoat for a sharp three-piece-suit look, the only thing that was missing was the tie, conspicuous in its almost complete absence and replaced instead by a crisp, buttoned shirt collar. The palette of slate greys, deep blues, and reds suited the elegantly informal collection, which included plenty of outerwear options from structured leather bombers to belted, wool overcoats.
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Creative director Paul Surridge (formerly at Jil Sander and Burberry) has proven his agility in menswear. Case in point: last season his collection was all about technical fabrics, but this season Surridge changed things up by deconstructing traditional British codes by removing sleeves on jackets, placing lapels high on the chest, and presenting narrow trousers with oversized cuffs worn above the ankle. Bowl cuts on models and the plaid and check fabrics on some very cool outerwear gave the whole affair a decidedly sixties vibe.
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Who better to do Roberto Cavalli than Roberto Cavalli himself? After passing menswear to his son Daniele last season, Cavalli Senior was back, and with him, all the established codes of his house: exotic opulence, rock 'n' roll glamor, and tribal touches. Fall 2014 was built around the Tuscan designer's love for street art, mixing painterly prints with the expected high-dose of leather.
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