And they're off! The buzziest of fashion weeks has just begun. The first day in Paris has already seen head-turning guests like Will Smith at Valentino and A$AP Rocky at the Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby show. With over 50 shows in five days, stay tuned for more news hot off the runway.
Haider Ackermann (pictured above)
Voluminous, folded, tucked, tied, belted, knotted, and crumpled—Haider Ackermann shared more facets of his exquisite layering during his first menswear presentation for Paris Fashion Week. The mood was romantic, with models looking like dandies from another era, wearing woollen greatcoats, waistcoats under jackets, and scarves artfully arranged at their necks to finish the look. The textures of the clothing alone were beautifully rich, inviting editors to peer closer as the looks passed by.
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This season Guillaume Henry took his cue from a moodier, darker place—say the smoky halls of a French billiard room of yesteryear? Models parading Henry's clean and concise attire bore the marks of gambling men: slicked-back hair and brooding looks, the perfect complement to the shorter, black blazers worn over loose, pleated trousers or oversized wool coats paired with thick-soled white lace-ups.
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Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli reinterpreted the comfort zone of the Valentino man, sending out looks like a beautifully tailored dark gray Haute Couture cashmere overcoat with a pair of blue jeans turned up at the cuffs, and a pair of cozy, blue pinstripe "suit-like" pyjamas. The pair even went so far as to try their hand at a Harris Tweed printed with a camouflage motif. In attendance was Will Smith, a guest for the opening of the brand's new Parisian all-men's concept store.
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Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby
Fanning the flames on the eternal fashion = art debate, Dior's creative director Raf Simons has once again paired up with Los Angeles-based conceptual artist Sterling Ruby to show a graphic and sharp collection that has (predictably) already divided many. Either you love pieces like the playful patchwork appliqués and oversize jackets printed with planets and photo booth pictures—or you don't. One thing is for sure, this is the kind of collection that will have fashion lovers hot to collect.
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Walter Van Beirendonck
Another off-the-wall presentation from Belgian designer Walter van Beirendonck, who dedicated this presentation to the fight against racism with the message spelled loud and clear in the feathers of a native headdress (perhaps a nod to Chanel's controversial feathered headpieces?). Outfits were for colorful citizens of the world, with tribal prints on sweaters and jackets, jauntily paired with vibrant, striped trousers.
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