On the third day of Paris Fashion Week we saw the streetwear trend continue at Givenchy, superb layering at Maison Martin Margiela, and strong showings from heritage brands Berluti and Robert Clergerie, both founded in 1895. Other presentations from the day included Cerruti, Comme des Garçons Homme, and John Galliano.
Maison Martin Margiela (pictured above)
Deconstructed chic reigned in the basement of the Oscar Niemeyer-designed, modernist headquarters of the French Communist Party, where the Maison Martin Margiela paraded a collection high on disheveled tailoring and conceptual technicality, and, predictably, low on convention. A three-piece suit with long folded-back lapels was worn loosely over an open-necked shirt; a classic trench was transformed with a wrapped, shawl effect; and fur and shaggy shearling pieces evoked edgy glamour.
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Riccardo Tisci shared his hoop dreams for Fall 2014 on a neon basketball court where we (and guests like Kanye West, Noomi Rapace, and Carine Roitfeld) watched the collection open with a long velvet blazer coat worn over loose velvet trousers followed by more baggy silhouettes. The basketball theme played out on bomber jackets, sweaters, shirts, trousers, and several prints, including one with court lines. Points go to Tisci for the lush muskrat-lined hoodies.
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Kris Van Assche
Kris van Assche presented a cool, youthful collection with nods to sportswear and schoolhouse days. Blazers and sweaters adorned with patches that called to mind college letters were mixed with tank vests worn both under and over looks. Black-and-white wool pea coats were cut high on the torso, while the other outerwear was bulky, as if it were made for a young man with room to grow.
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There was some major suit envy in the air at Berluti as creative director Alessandro Sartori sent out a collection of menswear that our fashion director, Matthew Marden, described as "masculine, elegant, and effortless." For formal occasions, the Berluti man sported a three-piece suit with long, fitted trousers; for casual wear, a single-button double-breasted blazer and exquisite shearling outerwear. Finishing on a black-tie note, Sartori received an enthusiastic thumbs-up from Will Smith, who was watching from the front-row.
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