Mad plaids, high collars and walking the fur-lined runway—day three of Milan Fashion Week was another busy round of shows with off-runway presentations by Brioni, Trussardi, and Tod's.
Emporio Armani (pictured above)
With high collars, hidden buttons on blazers, and raised ankle cuffs, Giorgio Armani set out to revise the suit and menswear codes for Fall 2014. The look was long and lean and mostly grey (kind of like the street-style looks in Milan this week), which left the audience free to explore the collection's many fine details, like using faux fur over real, or color-blocking black velvet and grey wool on a pair of trousers. The mood remained youthful with asymmetrical zippers on jackets, thick-soled brogues, and the shorter blazer in Armani's new tuxedo, which is practically begging for its red carpet moment.
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Newsboy caps and the slightly '60s look of turned-up trouser cuffs and double-breasted pea coats were a departure from last season's sporty, techno-fabric heavy collection. This season, Frida Giannini gave us a structured, tailored look, contrasting a palette of dusty pastels with buttery, black leathers in the form of trousers and lapels on coats and blazers. With totes at hand, worn slouchy under the arm, the look was restrained and easy.
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Paying homage to their roots was order of the day at Etro. Set against the backdrop of Southern Italy, it was obvious from the very first look—an exquisite three-piece checked suit with matching tie, gloves, and travel bag—that the audience was in for some serious tailoring. Silhouettes were sharp and narrow with the signature paisley print only occasionally making an appearance amongst the check, gingham, and plaid fabrics, which were dutifully cut by a handful of artisans who took their turn walking down the runway at the end of the show.
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Last season's young Elvis has given way to a collection of preppy, all-American swagger with '70s touches like high-necked turtlenecks and oversized belted wool overcoats. Jacobs also injected some extra strut with peacock prints on crisp silk shirts and plush velvet blazers. Velvet could also be found on the trouser piping and in the lapel of a bow-tied tuxedo, worn insouciantly with a pair of bright, white sneakers.
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With a black fur runway, Silvia Venturini Fendi shared what she describes as a "primitive vibe" for Fall 2014, dressing up her sophisticated, modern men with smart fox collars and beautifully cut fur outerwear, worn over a slim silhouette in shades of black, grey, and brown. We wouldn't expect anything short of perfection from her warm winter pieces, which also included bi-tonal leather coats, patterned sheepskin jackets, and some amusing bushy black fur mittens. The iconic Peekaboo bag also made a noteworthy appearance.
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