Modern Takes on the American Classic

What's old is new at the Laurelhurst Market, The Cape Cod Room, and Torrisi Italian Specialties.


Steak House: Laurelhurst Market, Portland, Oregon
The guys behind Simpatica Dining Hall created this unassuming butcher shop-cum-restaurant to showcase modest cuts like bavette and skirt. But if you're looking for a killer béarnaise sauce, they've got that, too.
3155 E. Burnside St., 503-206-3097;


Seafood Shack: The Cape Cod Room, Miami
Ken Lyon's menu—lobster-and-scallop pot pie, molasses-spiked Indian pudding, deep-fried Ipswich clams—might remind you of New England fare, but this unique blend of laid-back sophistication and clubbiness can be found only in Miami.
The Bath Club, 5937 Collins Ave., 305-864-1262;


Italian Deli: Torrisi Italian Specialties, New York City
The only thing more American than the Italian deli is Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi's paradigm-shifting Nolita storefront, where the Café Boulud alums spice up overstuffed sandwiches and meat lasagna with domestic ingredients.
250 Mulberry St., 212-965-0955;
—J.J. Goode
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