Now that we're used to the idea of culinary whizzes cooking in smallish towns like Portland, Maine, and powerful restaurateurs going the hot-dog route, talented chefs are attacking one of the last bastions of shitty food: layover dining. According to Coco: 10 World-Leading Masters Choose 100 Contemporary Chefs—a ridiculously impressive book highlighting future food stars as crowned by the industry's current masters, out next week from Phaidon—29-year-old Mario Carbone of AeroNuova in JFK's shiny Terminal 5 is one to watch. Handpicked by Mario Batali (whom he worked for at Babbo and Lupa before honing his knives at Café Boulud, WD-50, and Del Posto), Carbone whips up modern Italian offerings like ricotta nudi with garlic spinach and tartufo pizza that would make Wolfgang Puck go white.
In case you aren't JetBlueing it through New York anytime soon, you can make one of his signature desserts, a coffee-and-gelato float, at home.
"Manhattan Special" Affogato, from Coco
For the whipped cream (makes 3 portions)
225 ml heavy cream
85 g superfine sugar
Combine the ingredients in a stainless-steel bowl and beat until the cream sticks to the whisk.
For the affogato (makes 1 portion)
85 g vanilla gelato
60 ml coffee soda
25 g whipped cream
5 chocolate-covered espresso beans, chopped
Place a scoop of vanilla gelato in a chilled highball glass. Then pour the coffee soda over it and top the float with the whipped cream and espresso beans.