Unless it's the late 1970s and you've been training for a boxing match, you probably haven't ingested too many whole raw eggs lately. That may change this winter. Flips, cocktails containing both egg whites and yolks, are back on cocktail menus across the country.
Flips have a history dating back to long before the invention of the cocktail, when whole eggs were often mixed with beer or rum. But despite bartenders' love of everything vintage in the libation renaissance, flips have only just begun to take off.
Perhaps emboldened by drinkers' acceptance of new ingredients, bartenders are starting to put flips on winter cocktail menus: They're fluffy and creamy and weighty, and you'll find them served at bars as diverse as Rob Roy in Seattle, Japps Since 1879 in Cincinnati, Catherine Lombardi Restaurant in New Brunswick, N.J., Bar TNT in Arlington, Va., and Grand Café in San Francisco. They're a meal in a glass, which is fortifying in an era when so many bars are stingy with the Chex Mix.
Lest you think we've forgotten: Yes, egg-white-only drinks are everywhere these days too: frothy cocktails like the Pisco Sour, the Clover Club, and the Ramos Gin Fizz get their soft texture and foamy goodness from eggs (but no flavor is imparted). There's also a category of yolk-only classic drinks, called golden fizzes, but no one seems to be rushing to revive those.
You probably know about another whole-egg drink category, as well: nogs. They contain a whole egg, usually plus milk or cream, and often with the egg whites and yolks beaten separately. Delicious as these are, it's no use trying to persuade anyone to drink one before December 20.
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—Camper English is an international cocktails and spirits writer and the publisher of alcademics.com.