Best known for his celebrity-friendly eponymous womenswear line, Roland Mouret launched his first men's collection of bags and shoes for heritage French brand Robert Clergerie Homme recently at a private presentation in Paris. We spoke with the London-based designer as he celebrated the launch of his collection of men's shoes, ranging from smart derbies and oxfords to chic Chelsea boots.
On the surprising inspiration for his debut collection.
The starting point in the collection is the story of who the Robert Clergerie man was in the eighties. These are like the shoes I had then and I want them back in my life. I think they're quite fantastic. The idea is to bring men something of their generation with a savoir faire of the past.
On designing for the Robert Clergerie man.
Part the Robert Clergerie mentality is based around comfort, so the soles are really soft and easy to walk in. I think a lot about the movement men want to have and the way they walk.
On how body type doesn't matter anymore.
What's interesting about menswear right now is it's about your body shape, not like in the nineties when only a certain body type was accepted. There's a democracy in menswear now. It's not just based on going to the gym and having a six-pack.
On shopping for suits.
I'm a Savile Row sucker, and fortunately my friend Carlo Brandelli has come back to Kilgour. When my atelier isn't making my clothes, you'll see me there.
On revisiting old trends.
I'm still such a sucker for the eighties. I really love the revival of short trousers.
On man's best accessory.
I love bags that become your best friend—someone that you rely on. I also like to have a lot of smaller flannel bags inside to protect everything. I'm becoming quite a nerd about it.
On the best gift ever.
When my dad passed away my mom gave me his wedding ring. I wear it, and that's my best gift.
On indulging in an organized closet.
I'm a Virgo. A control freak. I keep things very orderly and like going from one color to another.
On the one wardrobe staple worth splurging on.
A coat is an investment you have to just go for—in cashmere, preferably. Everything in cashmere stays relevant.
On the item that got away.
There was a black cotton sweater from Acne that I want to find again, but they don't produce it anymore so I'm calling every store around the world to see if they have it. They make it in wool but it just doesn't fit the same way.
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