With several show-stopping presentations, including lasers at Versace and the members of KISS at John Varvatos, Milan Fashion Week got off to a rocking start.
Stefano Pilati's first collection for Ermenegildo Zegna was one of the strongest presentations of last season, bringing the Italian brand into new territory and breaking several established codes along the way. This season, Pilati continued his journey at the house, and showed a luxurious collection that included elegantly layered silhouettes, long, fluid overcoats, and a polished take on plaids and quilting. With fabrics that range from cashmere and Vicuña to Kevlar, this is Italian-made luxury at its very best.
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Dolce & Gabbana
Fall 2014 was a visit to the kingly court of Domenico and Stefano with their take on medieval Norman Sicily. Think: knights dressed in chainmail knits and princely patterns, which included the keys to the kingdom and armor-prints on suits. The designers couldn't resist adding a little glitter to this royal suite of regal reds, greens, and blacks so they added crowning details like bejeweled velvet moccasins as well as Timberland-like boots.
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Another Italian brand that's not afraid to show a little glitter, Donatella went all out for the Versace man this season, crossing a heavy-leaded biker look with a rhinestone cowboy in looks that paired leather chaps over tiny bandana-printed underwear. Models also sported silk prints, furs, and plenty of embellishments, including studs on bags and logos on black quilted-leather motorcycle helmets. The result? A riotous end to the first day of shows.
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"All kinds of cool," tweeted our fashion director, Matthew Marden, of this season's sporty and stylish collection from English designer Neil Barrett. With the magnificent Palazzo del Senato as a backdrop, Barrett sent out models in a collection of earthy browns and blacks, with a flash of white lightning: a central print on sweatshirts and bomber jackets. Standout pieces like the lean, dégradé outerwear in leather and suede made this a very sophisticated sportswear collection. Also look out for Barrett's debut sunglasses collection launching Sunday evening in Milan—limited-edition only, of course.
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Creative director Massimo Giorgetti brings us his latest take on sporty and youthful clothing for the brand best known for its energetic mix of prints and colorful looks (and whose womenswear collection is already a hot Fashion Week ticket). For Fall 2014, Giorgetti featured polished gold fabrics under a tartan sweater and along the sleeves of a preppy duffle coat, as well as camouflage with tartan and marbled streetwear looks.
—D'Arcy du Petit Thouars
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