The latter-day gourmand is a lucky son of a bitch, eating at a time when molecular gastronomy is all the rage, artisanal ingredients abound in supermarkets, and Viking ranges and Sub-Zeros are becoming standard in upscale homes. But these heady culinary days beg a question: Why should grilling remain a lighter-fluid-drenched backwater where beef patties à la (Burger) King pass for fine cuisine? There is a wide and ever-growing world of epicurean grilling options beyond the weenie roast. Credit the new generation of grills, which provide freedoms and flavors that home chefs have never previously enjoyed. Atop the gourmet-grilling food chain are gleaming devices that enable enterprising types to cook, say, Provençal leg of lamb on one side and marinated cod, at a different heat with a different fuel, on the other. The end results can shine as bright as the grill itself, or even, perhaps, a Michelin star.