The allure of the place your grandfather went for a rib eye wasn’t gastronomic, it was sociological. It was a men’s cluban enclave where he could talk politics, business, and broads over a frill-free plate of meat and potatoes. Thankfully, those places still exist (Peter Luger, the Ur-no-frills New York restaurant, famous for its harsh lighting and harsher waiters, just earned a Michelin star). But a new breed of steakhousesrestaurants that combine the clubby spirit of the old-school spots with epicurean achievements that would turn Thomas Keller’s headare earning the cornerstone of the American dining scene the respect it deserves. The new chophouses are as worthy of adulation as their forefathers were. To find out, all you have to do is put down the chopsticks and pick up a well-sharpened steak knife.
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