Boston
Boston Speed’s Famous Hot Dog Wagon or Speed’s Hot Dogs
Sausage virtuoso and keeper of unpredictable hours Ezra “Speed” Anderson brings shame to the dirty-water dogs sold elsewhere around the country. Since 1975, inside a trailer he parks in an industrial lot in Roxbury, the eightysomething former DJ has been charcoal-grilling mass-produced franks that have been marinated in a mixture of apple cider, spices, and brown sugar (blessedly, he grills the buns, too). Then he slathers them in homemade chili, sweet relish, mustard, and a barbecuelike “special” sauce. Ketchup is not on offer—Speed thinks it’s kid stuff.
54 Newmarket Square, 617-839-0102

Seattle
Skillet
The best street vendors typically pick just one thing and do it well. But one-year-old Skillet somehow manages to turn out a roster of stellar dishes that reads like the menu at an ambitious restaurant—all out of a silver Airstream trailer parked on various Seattle street corners. Besides seasonal stuff like sturgeon caught in the Columbia River and breakfast treats like maple-braised pork belly with cornmeal waffles, there are burgers topped with blue cheese and a winning concoction owners Danny Sizemore and Josh Henderson call “bacon jam.” If you think that sounds like street-food sacrilege, get the humbler poutine—hand-cut fries bombed with gravy and cheddar.
Skilletstreetfood.com for locations

A LA CARTE
Esteemed chefs in six cities share their favorite street-food fixes.

Philadelphia
Jonathan McDonald, formerly of Snackbar
Where: Nick’s Breakfast, corner of South 19th and Walnut Streets
What: Egg and cheese with raw onions and mustard

Los Angeles
Suzanne Goin, Lucques
Where: Let’s Be Frank, Helms Bakery Complex, Helms Avenue between Venice and Washington Boulevards
What: Grass-fed-beef frank with onions

San Francisco
Mark Sullivan, Spruce and the Village Pub
Where: Pizza Politana, farmers’ markets; joelbaeckercatering.com
What: Wood-fired pizzas with seasonal toppings

Chicago
Rick Bayless, Topolobampo and Frontera Grill
Where: Canal Street and Roosevelt Road
What: Cóctel de camarones y pulpo (shrimp and octopus)

New York City
Michael Psilakis, Anthos and Mia Dona
Where: Corner of 31st Avenue and 30th Street, Astoria, Queens
What: Pork souvlaki with lemon juice, olive oil, and salt

Portland, Oregon
Andy Ricker, Pok Pok
Where: La Chiquita, corner of North Killingsworth Street and Interstate Avenue
What: Tacos de birria (stewed goat) and tongue