1. Pantaleo
Once difficult to find, this aged Sardinian goat cheese with unexpected citrus notes is gaining a following in the United States.

2. Berkswell
From the English village of the same name, this tart hard cheese proves that the U.K. can stretch beyond Cheddar and Stilton.

3. Tomme Crayeuse
This dense, almost chalky Alpine mountain cheese has a mushroomy earthiness and the unmistakable flavor of buttered popcorn.

4. Idiazábal
When Basque food became fashionable, the region's cheeses followed—especially this sheep's-milk creation, which is smoky and nutty.

Your Canadian Source for Raw-Milk Cheese
To the exasperation of American enthusiasts, the incomparably delicious cheeses made from raw (read: unpasteurized) milk, aged less than 60 days—Camembert, Époisses, Alsatian Muenster!—are banned by the Organization of Overprotective Mothers. (Some people call it the FDA.) But you don't have to cross oceans to indulge: Smart border jumpers head straight to Yannick Fromagerie du Marché in Montreal, which stocks an assortment well worth smuggling through Customs. 357 rue Parent Saint-Jérôme, 450-436-8469; yannickfromagerie.ca