How to Buy a Tuxedo: 13 Formalwear Tips from a Bespoke Tailor
Jake Mueser and Amber Doyle, tailors at bespoke suit-maker Against Nature, guide you through the process of buying a tux, whether you choose off-the-rack, made-to-measure, or custom-made.
On the importance of canvassed linings
"The most important thing that people talk about in suit jackets is canvassing. You need a canvassed lining to give a jacket the proper shape in the front—whether it's a half canvas that's just on the chest plate or something that runs the full front of the coat."
"More mass-market (lower-priced) manufacturers use an alternative called fusing, which is something that's pressed onto the front of the garment to give it more shape and body, but that's not going to add the same shape to the body, and in time it will begin to bubble. A canvassed garment will shape to your body and have a much better silhouette. When I go to different stores, I'm always feeling jackets to see how well they're canvassed."