"Toronto," said Steve Martin on 30 Rock, "is just like New York, but without all the stuff." He was only partly right. Thanks to its Victorian roots, the city has, for a long time, actually had stuff—it just wasn't very exciting. In the past decade, however, the capital of Ontario has shed its provincial sensibilities. It's now teeming with modern-art galleries, high-concept restaurants, and fashion-forward boutiques, making for a cosmopolitan weekend of northern exposure.













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